The "A" Train

Buyer Beware (or Fraud Alert)

About a year ago I started seeing ads for unbelievable skin care products that promised to make you look younger over night. If memory serves me correctly, that product was called Hydroderm. Hydroderm is still around despite the fact that they received this warning letter from the FDA (this is the longest FDA warning I have ever seen).Well, due to the success of that ad, I am now seeing more and more companies jumping on the band wagon. The newest is an ad that takes you to a heathers-diary.com which looks like a personal blog of a woman named Heather that lives in your hometown!

Upon further inspection, Heather lives no where near you or anyone else because she doesn't exist. The company is using your IP address and inserting your location into this "person's" blog. Here is the ad with your IP address and it shows Heather lives near you and here is the same link done through a proxy server that shows that she is from nowhere. This is fraud and I have reported my findings to the FDA...however, they probably won't do anything in enough time before this company makes millions.

Heather is pumping two products that promise to turn back the clock 20 years. One product is a capsule that has resveratrol which is produced by a Greek company named Purplesky limited. Because this is a foreign company, I could not find a lot of information on them, but I did find this entry from the complaint board http://www.complaintsboard.com/?search=Purplesky%20Service If you want to get the benefits of resveratrol into your body...buy a bottle of red wine. It's cheaper than the $79.95 price tag for the capsules and its more fun when you share it with a friend.

The other product Heather is pumping is a skin cream called Dermapril which has Matrixyl 3000 a peptide. This product is being produced by company called Rauscher | Bekke LLC. If you look into this company on the Better Business website you get this glowing report. http://www.seflorida.bbb.org/Business-Report/Rauscher-Bekke-LLC-92010110 This company has over 580 complaints against them for poor business practices.

I have two points, 1) there are no overnight miracles 2) know who you give your hard earned cash to

FDA Approves Eyelash Drug

Recently, the FDA has approved bimatoprost ophthalmic solution 0.03% as treatment for hypotrichosis. In layman terms, you can now get a prescription from your doctor to lengthen, thicken and darken your eyelashes. The new drug is called Latisse and it is made by Allergan. More info here

What REALLY Works

You've got a face full of wrinkles and sundamage and want to fix it on a limited budget. What REALLY works and where should you invest your money.

1) Retinoids (including retinol) - find the one that you respond to the best.

2) Carbon Dioxide Laser Resurfacing - expensive but worth it if you have extreme sundamage. Count on three weeks to heal.

3) Hyaluronic Acid Injections - topically applied HA doesn't work.

Everything else in the marketplace just does not give you the bang for your buck that the three treatments above provide. However, I would have included Botox, but it can get expensive to maintain. Read this article in the New York Times for more info. This article was written from a review published in The Archives of Dermatology.

Only the Cool People Use Botox

Dear A Train Readers,

Sorry for the lack of recent posts, but the launch of Aqualant is close upon us and I have been scurrying around to get it out the door. But, if that wasn't enough, I had a proposition presented to our company that has pulled me away from normal daily activities. We can't release any information, but details will be coming very soon. So, posts may be more sporadic over the next few months.

I have several topics that I have drafted but, I haven't had time to verify some of the research, but here is an article that was recently posted that I felt was worth a comment.

Here's an article that was posted by a writer on women's issues at US News and she commented on the inference that a recent  Dermatology Surgery studythat concluded women that use Botox are more attractive and more likely to land jobs, dates, attention etc.

The writer comments that she can't really tell a difference in the before and after posted below. However, I see a softer look that is subtle and more attractive. Her eyebrows are lifted and wider apart which opens up her eyes to make her look more friendly.

However, Botox over done is difficult to look at. Therefore, make sure you find someone that is well trained on the ART of botox application.

I agree with the writer that its OK to use cosmetic procedures to enhance yourself, but scaring people into using the products is bad.

Fear is a big motivator in the beauty biz.

The writer admits to wanting to enhance her own self image by using a retinol cream at night (I wonder if it's Green Cream?)...

Boomers Just Want To Age Naturally...with a little help

According to a recent market research report done on Baby Boomers and older (born before 1964), 42% of them just want to grow old naturally.

14% plan to purchase anti aging products. These are the honest people.

Here's the stat that is particularly interesting: 26% want to "age naturally" and plan to purchase an anti-aging product. These people want to stay true to themselves but want a little help :)

The last stat is one that proves denial is a very powerful human trait. Despite the fact that plastic surgery and major proceedures are growing at double digit rates only 2% said they plan to have a major proceedure done to enhance their aging.

Everything You Wanted to Know About Dermal Fillers

Here is a great video presentation on dermal fillers and the current line of practice. This presentation is so good, you can get continuing medical education credits (CME). You just have to answer the quiz at the end.

Clearly, this video is for medical professionals, but if you are considering this proceedure, I highly recommend spending :30 minutes to better understand what to expect.

Registration may be required to view the presentation.

Bonus question, can you tell where the presenter has gotten his dermal fillers injected? Here's a visual hint. Yes, I'm an awful human being. Hehe.

Collagen Loss

If you have a question on the subject of collagen loss. This blog post nails it in totality. It is short and to the point and is right on with its recommendations.

I will admit that my mentor and teacher, Dr. Terezakis can be a little retinoid myopic (i.e. use a retinoid for life and collagen loss won't be an issue). However, the reality is that most of us sin as children and want to clean up the effects as adults.

I think that that is the world view of most American's and we as skin care professionals need to advise accordingly. Therefore, if you need to pay for the sins of your past, sometimes more aggressive measures are needed and that is where other treatments (besides retinoids) are needed.

Another Great Reason To Start a Retinoid Early

Of course I don't buy into the hype of this article, 5 out of 780 cases does not make an epidemic...but it underscores another great reason to start using a retinoid early in life...to avoid the bug! http://www.reuters.com/article/healthNews/idUSN1755923220080317?feedType=RSS&feedName=healthNews&rpc=22&sp=true

I believe...

Often when I am presenting to aestheticians or skin care reps from other companies, I will make some statement about an ingredient or procedure. The other person often responds, "Do you believe that?" On the surface that seems like a legitiment question. But on a much deeper level, I find it very disturbing that someone would phrase a question in such a way.

When you believe something, it is not based on fact, it is based on faith. I think this concept is well entrenched in some people's thinking. It's as if skin care and personal well being is based on some religous belief instead well founded scientific fact. To further compound the confusion between fact and fiction, you can find a myriad of clinical studies that can be presented on either side of the argument.

Because there is such a dizzying array of scientific studies, I think it is only logical that we fall into a false sense of faith when it comes to our own health care.

So who in the world has time to decipher clinical studies to determine what is real and what is bogus...No one. Not even doctors to some extent. Can we trust the goverment to regulate such matters? The FDA is so overrun that they don't have the resources to review every ingredient that is introduced into the market place.

Now we are back to believing things which we can only extrapolate from what we know. My challenge to you is to not rely on others to shape your belief system. Do the homework and research the information yourself and come to your own conclusions. Determine who your trusted sources are and don't be afraid to question their own statements.

Skin/Health care should not be based on a belief system. Instead it should be based on facts, no matter how hard it is to wade through them.

Next week, I will share some of my favorite writers on the subject of skin and skin care.

Toronto Derm Talks Wrinkles

Here is an article that was featured in Canadian Living Magazine that interviewed Dr. Lisa Kellett on using topical products to help treat wrinkles. Dr. Kellett gives a great overview on the active ingredients that are on the market today and she recommends the use of topical retinoids.

From her article she states this about retinoids, "At prescription strength, they can also stimulate collagen renewal. “Over-the-counter creams are not as effective as prescription-grade products,” says Kellett." Though she is absolutely correct that prescription strength retinoids are far more active than over-the-counter retiniods, her statement leaves me with the impression that retinol does not stimulate collagen renewal. I would humbly submit that she may not be aware of this study from the Archives of Dermatology dated May 2007.In the study, Drs. Fisher, Voorhees, Kang, et. al. found that retinol does in fact boost collagen production.

The problem with prescription strength retinoids is the fact that most people can not tolerate them on a daily basis (especially in the beginning or adaptation phase). Retinol in high enough strengths are more tolerable for daily use as suggested by this study from The Society of Investigative Dermatology dated October 1995.

There is no hype in this article and all Dr. Kelletts's comments are based on sound dermatologic principals. I especially appreciated the cited expert on the use of nanotechnology.

DISCLAIMER: Dr. Kellett has her own line of skin care products called Clear Clinical which she sells online.