The "A" Train

Top 10 Cosmetic News Stories for 2009

A fellow cosmetic chemist, Doug Schoon,  has posted his top 10 list of this past year's cosmetic news stories. I could not agree more with his assessment which is well documented in science and clinical studies. I highly recommend that you read it and pass it along. http://www.schoonscientific.com/in-the-news-articles-top-news-briefs.html

Buyer Beware (or Fraud Alert)

About a year ago I started seeing ads for unbelievable skin care products that promised to make you look younger over night. If memory serves me correctly, that product was called Hydroderm. Hydroderm is still around despite the fact that they received this warning letter from the FDA (this is the longest FDA warning I have ever seen).Well, due to the success of that ad, I am now seeing more and more companies jumping on the band wagon. The newest is an ad that takes you to a heathers-diary.com which looks like a personal blog of a woman named Heather that lives in your hometown!

Upon further inspection, Heather lives no where near you or anyone else because she doesn't exist. The company is using your IP address and inserting your location into this "person's" blog. Here is the ad with your IP address and it shows Heather lives near you and here is the same link done through a proxy server that shows that she is from nowhere. This is fraud and I have reported my findings to the FDA...however, they probably won't do anything in enough time before this company makes millions.

Heather is pumping two products that promise to turn back the clock 20 years. One product is a capsule that has resveratrol which is produced by a Greek company named Purplesky limited. Because this is a foreign company, I could not find a lot of information on them, but I did find this entry from the complaint board http://www.complaintsboard.com/?search=Purplesky%20Service If you want to get the benefits of resveratrol into your body...buy a bottle of red wine. It's cheaper than the $79.95 price tag for the capsules and its more fun when you share it with a friend.

The other product Heather is pumping is a skin cream called Dermapril which has Matrixyl 3000 a peptide. This product is being produced by company called Rauscher | Bekke LLC. If you look into this company on the Better Business website you get this glowing report. http://www.seflorida.bbb.org/Business-Report/Rauscher-Bekke-LLC-92010110 This company has over 580 complaints against them for poor business practices.

I have two points, 1) there are no overnight miracles 2) know who you give your hard earned cash to

The Most Disturbing Thing I Have Seen On the Internet (re: beauty)

For the past week I have been debating whether or not I should comment on the following 

video I found, but I think it is better to be informed than to bury your head in the sand.

When applied by a trained professional (i.e. a doctor) botox is safe. However, the thing 

you must understand is that botox is a poison.

Here is a video of a woman who is demonstrating how to "botox yourself". I cannot under-

line and overstate how dangerous this is. First, there are a litany of side effects that only 

a trained physician can screen and treat. However, an untrained person could cause 

permanent damage to their facial muscles and/or eyesight. If injected in the wrong place, 

you could cause death.

Lastly, you need to trust the source of your botox. The people that are selling botox through 

the internet is violating a myriad of internet laws. So, can you really trust someone that is 

violating laws to send you a safe batch of botox?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C3UBh1rZHs

How To Find A Skin Care Pro

As products become more sophisticated and effective...it's becoming more difficult to sift through the pseudo-science and misinformation to find out what works for you.

Everyone's skin is different and the skin is a dynamic organ that requires individual attention. One size fits all just does not apply to your skin and what is working now for you may not be so good 5 years from now.

However, just because someone declares themselves a skin care pro doesn't necessarily mean that you find the ideal solution for you. I hear about horror stories almost everyday about laser mishaps, allergic reactions and inappropriate behavior coming from individuals in our business.

To find a skin care pro you can trust, your best bet is to get a referral from someone you know. This can be very difficult for most people and the internet is starting to become an alternative. However, I place a very large grain of salt on anonymous reviews...so, finding someone you know that has found success is your best bet.

Generally speaking, I find that the older 40+ pros that have been in the business long enough to see through all the BS can steer you to a solution that is best for your skin. Plus, they could not have been in business long if they haven't successfully helped create results.

That doesn't mean that there are not younger professionals that don't know their stuff. They are just harder to find and you need to be able to ask critical questions to get to their knowledge on the subject of skin care. If they don't lead with a physical sunscreen and a retinoid...you may be in the wrong place.

I would avoid anyone that:

1) Has an attitude of superiority...I see this alot in the Medical Spas, Plastic Surgery Centers and Spas...these places want to peddle exclusivity instead of knowledge and results. 

2) Promises instant results...first, there is nothing on the planet that delivers instant results...if it does... there are going to be serious long term side effects you need to consider.

3) Tries to sell you skin care products that are over $100 a bottle, tube or can...Consumers have the perception that expensive is better. I have never seen a product that costs that much that delivers consistent measurable results. 

4) Advertises excessively...good skin care pros survive on word of mouth and don't need large ads to bring in customers...the best skin care pros I know are booked several months in advance and I never see them advertise. 

In a slow economy where we all have little time, going through the process of finding a skin care professional can be exasperating. However, the results will be worth it. If you don't find the perfect person for you first time out, don't get discouraged...there are good people out there and your skin will thank you.

The Beauty Business...It's Ugly

When I first started in this business 9 years ago, a very prominent Madison Avenue PR maven told me, "the beauty business..it's ugly". After about a decade in this profession, I think I finally understand what she meant.

We started with a formula invented and proven by New Orleans Dermatologist Dr. Nia Terezakis. We are passionate about retinoids because of her passion. I have never met anyone so driven to get a message out to her patients about the proven effects of lifelong Vitamin A therapy. 

When we first brought high potency retinol to the market...we were the only company. We had no competitors other than Tx Systems which was not actively selling or marketing its products. When I passionately pleaded my case to this PR maven, she dismissed us like we were nothing and made the above statement about the beauty business being ugly. Oh, how time proves people wrong.

Since we have introduced our product, there is no credible skin care company that doesn't offer some kind of retinol product. They say imitation is sincerest form of flattery...well I'm flattered, I guess. But, I am very happy that more and more companies are starting to see the light...retinoids (vitamin a)  are that important to the health of our skin. I only hope that the rest of the public catches on...soon.

Despite the fact that we have more third party independent clinical data on retinoids (do your own search at www.pubmed.com for "topical retinoids") than any other active, we still hear about AHA's, peptides, vitamin c, and now I am starting to hear about stem cells. The fact is, the beauty business is a business built on fads.

Marketing people drive this ship and research and development is propped up and prettied by pseudoscience.

So why do we hear so much about the fads and the science gets ignored? It's for the same reason that we hear about the killer down the street and not the fireman who saves a life. We are drawn towards sensationalism and the belief that a magic potion will make us younger overnight.

The large skin care companies spend millions with magazines and networks to influence their editors (if you don't think editors are swayed by ad money...you are incredibly naive). This is true for websites nowadays (they used to be truly independent) but, as the money flows, the raves follow.

With contradicting research, and information overload...how do you cut through the clutter? Find a skin care professional (dermatologist, plastic surgeon or esthetician) that has experience and will deliver results. In my next post, I will give you some tips on how to find a skin care pro.

 

Facials: The Debate

Facials are promoted as a  simple massaging of the skin to miracle "at the touch of a hand". But, at any level are they worth the $40 to $200 a session? Here's what the experts say:

Pro: Aesthetician, Rowena Woo: (I'm paraphrasing) Facials can be beneficial if you stick to the basics like cleaning, extraction and exfoliation.

Con: From dermatologist, Dr. Leslie Bauman: aestheticians “often don’t know which products are right for the skin of each client” and that facials cause breakouts most of the time.

Reality: There are many aestheticians that are very well trained and know their business better than some of doctors. However, most expensive facials are a waste of money and time and you can pretty much bet the farm that it has no anti-aging benefits. However, a facial can be a great luxury if you can afford it. Just understand that the benefits from a physical standpoint are small such as light exfoliation, blemish extracting (which is really good for clogged pores) and cleansing. The meta physical benefits can be significant, a time to be caressed and pampered is a great thing. Again, if you can afford it.

My advise is find an aesthetician that has experience and doesn't push alot of unneeded products and services. Also, if they don't lead with a retinoid as their first line of defense for healthy skin, then I would keep looking (this goes for the docs too!).

Want to read more on the subject? A New York Times Article and Dr. Baumann's Blog Posting

Beauty Buzzword Bingo

In my original post about beauty marketing, I was focusing on the claim phrases that the larger beauty companies spiel out. Here is a funny article from the New York Times that asked common consumers what they thought about some of the claims they read in beauty magazines. Some of the responses are hilarous and only further underscores how the beauty industry is trying to confuse you (instead of educate you). Make sure you read the company's response to the reporters inquiry. I was even more confused after reading some of the explainations.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/02/fashion/02skinbx.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=slogin

The First "Claimy" Award

The FDA goes to great lengths to police what skin care companies say that their products can do to the skin. For companies that violate the public's trust, the FDA will rain down on their marketing parade by sending a cease and desist letter. Here's a great example of one of those letters.

Well, the skin care marketing industrial complex has created an art out of making claims that don't really say anything. I can see some brilliant Madison Avenue marketing executive sitting in their office and creating this incredibly brilliant statement that will cause the masses to run out of their homes and purchase the next big miracle cream.

Getting ready for work this morning I heard a statement from a mass marketed anti-aging product that made the following claim:

"This product will visibly reduce the signs of aging by a full dermatological grade"

WTH?, Does that mean I will get an A instead of B? You mean I can qualify for medical school now? Does this mean that dermatolgists are now grading our skin? This is the most powerfully brilliant claim thats says nothing, so I wanted to give it our first Claimy Award. I hope this marketing executive is feeling pretty good about themselves. (I hear the voice of that Budweiser radio announcer guy in my head saying you deserve a Claimy).

I hope the public will understand that there are no overnight miracle cures. It takes realistic expectations, hard work and patience to create younger looking skin (i.e. it takes a retinoid and some other things).

The irony of things is that, when I went and looked up what the active ingredient was in the skin care product mentioned in the Claimy ad, I found it was retinol. However, I can assure you that there is not enough of the active ingredient in the product to make a "visible full dermatological grade difference".

Cosmoprof

Greetings from one of the world's largest beauty shows, Cosmoprof. The show just finished up and I am heading back home today. My purpose for the trip was to find packaing for our new product, but I couldn't help but check out the other companies that sell skin care.

Cosmoprof has more of an international feel with companies coming from Italy, Australia, China and Korea.

In the past years, the rage was anti-oxidants like idebenone and copper peptides. Well, there was none of that here this year and it was all oranganic and green products.Even dermatologists were jumping into the ring with their own green line.

I attended a presentation from three prominent beauty stores and I asked the question "Do you think green/organic products are a trend or a fad?". All three buyers said it is here to stay...I disagree. Science will prevail in my opinion. Once people find out that green won't make them look younger, treat their acne and help other skin ailments, they will move onto the next big thing. On a side note, our new moisture sealant could be classified as a "green" product. However, we will not market it as such. It just so happens that the best ingredients for the product just happen to be natural.

I also attended a technical forum presented by our trade group ICMAD. I learned alot of technical boring stuff, but I asked the question to group, if the CIR had completed its reevaluation of parabens. The author of the soon to be published review was in the room and he emphatically reemphasized the safety of parabens and said without a doubt that they are (as a class) the best preservatives on the market. I know I have been promising a post on parabens, but I am going to try to get my hands on that paper to augment my post.

I had a very prominent person in the industry tell me that, "the beauty business is ugly". I now know what she meant by that statement. This is definately an industry that I am not proud to be a part of. So, today I am officially classifying Advanced Skin Technology as a part of the healthy skin business. I will let the quacks keeping pushing beauty.

'Roid Kings

No, this post isn't a follow up on last week's post about topical steroids. This 'roid is referring to men who use hemorrhoid cream to make their chest and abdomen appear chiseled.

We have all known about the beauty pageant contestants using Preparation H under their eyes to reduce puffiness, but men using it on their bodies is something I can't stomach (pun intended).

As a society, I guess we have come to accept the vanity pursuits of women, but seeing it in men...is kinda like watching sausage getting made...I don't want to see it.

True, hemorrhoid medicine shrinks tissue, but that will only make your chest appear smaller. I love the dermatologist in this article who recommends that you apply cayenne pepper to thicken the skin (I wonder if that could be used as a natural male enhancement?).

Advice to guys, don't put product that is meant to be use in your posterior on your chest. Odds are you will have an allergic reaction and do you really think that women will want to put their hands on you?